The vanishing pharmacy of the Sundarbans

Koyra Upazila, Bangladesh – The Shakbaria river’s low tide has pulled the water back, exposing a wide, slippery mudbank between Suranjan Raptan and the edge of the Sundarbans, the world’s largest tidal mangrove forest.

For most of his life, Suranjan has relied on this forest as his pharmacy. He rises before the sun, crosses into the mangroves in a small boat and walks barefoot through the clay-mud jungle for hours, carrying a knife to cut the leaves, roots and bark he uses to make medicines.

Today, the 40-year-old traditional healer, or kabiraj, has come to borrow his uncle’s boat.

Chapal Raptan, Suranjan’s uncle and a honey collector, is a medium-built man with sharp features.

“Suranjan? Come in and sit,” Chapal Raptan answers, his voice hoarse. “I worked in the rain yesterday; now I have a cold, so I’m resting.”

“Sad news,” Suranjan replies. “Drink hot tea with tulsi leaves and honey. It will help. I won’t sit now; I’m heading to the forest to bring back some plants. I want to take your boat.”

“Okay, uncle. Rest well. If you feel worse, I’ll send medicine,” Suranjan says as he sets off.

Beyond the courtyard lies the road, then the Shakbaria river, and across it, the Sundarbans.